Waiter, I´ll have your finest Semuq Champey

Dear Readers,

The road to Semuq Champey (still in Guatemala) was a long and sometimes bumpy, sometimes winding, and sometimes both, one. I was still unsure of these mythical ¨chicken¨buses I had heard so much about, so instead I booked a direct shuttle to Lanquin, which is a little town close to Semuq Champey. The trip started easily enough in a tourist van that I shared with only 3 other people ( a rare luxury). After several hours of driving we pulled up to a modern looking shopping mall in the city of Cobán. This was really interesting, because my perception up to that point was that Guatemala was not that developed. We had a 20 minute break, so I went into the mall. I didn´t see any major chain stores, but they did have a food court with a Domino´s and Pollo Campero. I would have to guess that the average Guatemalan cannot afford to eat and shop there. Still, it was a major surprise considering that I didn´t even see any sort of chain restaurants in Belize, and up until that point I had the impression that it was a country that was doing fairly well. Not that chain restaurants are a signal of progress or wealth. I just mean that I feel like Belizeans seem more likely to be able to afford to eat at such an establishment.

Moving on. In Cobán we drop one of our fellow passengers off, and then the driver, in turn, drops us off at another mini shuttle place. He tries to tell us that this mini shuttle is part of the same tourist company and that we will be on our way to Lanquin in minutes. But as he drove off and I had a look around I realized that we had been dumped at a collectivo mini shuttle station. This turns out to be one of the worst transportation situations of my entire trip (even up until the 2 month mark). We sit in the little station for an hour as the shuttle slowly starts to fill up. The van is full when we finally leave the station. Within 20 minutes the van becomes ridiculously over-the-top panick attack inducing full. I think I counted 23 people were sitting in that van. There were four rows of four (where only 3 can comfortably sit), two people next to the driver, at least two people sitting behind the driver facing the rest of the passengers on what is not even seats but more of an outcropping. Plus the guy who´s legs were inside while his body hung out the window. Adding to the clausterphobia were the not so paved roads winding up and down steep mountain roads. My only saving grace was that I was sitting next to the window and the air outside was cool and crisp. My stomach churned as my legs cramped and lost feeling from my heavy camera bag cradled on my lap. I couldn´t move a single muscle, but at least I could lean my head toward the window, breath some fresh air, and enjoy the spectacular view. Ahh!

Finally, about 2 hours later I arrived at El Retiro Lodge in Lanquin. I hadn´t counted on it being the main place where all the backpackers stayed. By the time all six of us got off the shuttle and down the steps to reception I was at the back of the line. I don´t normally recommend making reservations at hostels, but this is definitely one of those places where you should call ahead. Long story short I ended up sleeping in a hammock my first night there. At least these people have thought ahead and created lockers next to all of the hammocks to stash your stuff. Sleeping in the hammock was really not that bad. I had to adjust positions a couple of times throughout the night to restore circulation to my legs, but tossing and turning is a circumstance of life on any well used hostel mattress. The worst part was the cold. I was only given one blanket, which kept the top of me nice and toasty, but left my backside freezing!

After an interesting night of sleep I was ready for a warm sunny day at Semuq Champey. I bet at this point you are wondering what is this Semuq Champey. Maybe curiousity has already gotten to you and you´ve googled it. If you haven´t, let me explain that Semuq Champey is a series of cascading natural limestone pools set in the lush mountainous forests of Guatemala.
The day trip started with us tourists being herded into the back of a utitilty truck outfitted with metal bars to kind of cage us in. We stood up the whole drive along narrow and winding mountain roads. It was a little intense , but fun. I couldn´t really complain because I have seen these same types of trucks crammed full with Guatemalans to the point that the people in the middle must manage to stay on their feet simply because their bodies cannot move in any other way.

After about 45 minutes of driving we finally reached our destination. Unfortunately, I will have to leave the adventure for another day, because I am all internetted out.

Next time: Semuq Champey, for real.

xx,
gwen